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'I visited 'deserted' UK beach you can only reach on foot and it was almost empty'
Reach Daily Express | May 14, 2025 3:39 AM CST

Nothing beats a trip to the beach, but on a sunny day, this can often mean fighting the crowds for parking and getting there early to stake your claim on the best spot.

That's why it's good to know about hidden gems, and they don't get better hidden than Sker Beach in South Wales. Accessible only on foot, its tucked-away location means it often has fewer visitors than nearby spots. But is it worth the walk? Reporter Portia Jones strapped on her walking boots to explore the sandy shores.

Portia described her first impression of the beach: "The empty beach stretched out for miles before me, the steep pebble bank giving way to a vast expanse of golden sand and gentle waves rolling in. There was hardly a soul around despite the clear blue skies and sunshine. I spotted a dog walker far in the distance and two horse riders clopping along the shoreline, but no deckchairs, ice cream vans or sunbathers were in sight.

"You don't stumble across this beach by accident. It takes a bit of legwork to get here, but that's half the fun. Reached via a winding coastal path and only accessible on foot, this is one of Wales' most gloriously deserted beaches, and trust me, it's worth every step."

She explained how to get there: "Remote Sker Beach is the most westerly of Porthcawl's beaches and is only accessible by walking from Rest Bay or the Kenfig National Nature Reserve."

"Located near Porthcawl, the reserve was once home to one of the sixth biggest towns in Glamorgan, but now makes up part of the largest active dune system in Europe and features a diverse range of plants, animals and birds, attracting bird watchers and walkers from across Wales."

However, she did have a warning for those expecting to find the usual facilities: "While it's a perfectly lovely sandy stretch, this is where you come for a spot of solitude, to walk the dog or have a bracing sea dip. There are no facilities here, including toilets, cafes or lifeguards, so if you're plodding down here, you'll need to bring everything with you. It's a proper wild seashore, free from seaside resort tat shops, whirring arcades and beachside fish and chip shops."

Portia first heard about the beach through word of mouth after joining a wild swimming group. She decided to visit one weekend when it was the perfect weather for a walk: "I arrived on a gloriously sunny Saturday morning at Kenfig Nature Reserve, one of Wales' top sand-dune reserves. The land was designated a National Nature Reserve (NNR) in 1989 and a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) in 2003. These designations help to protect rare habitats and species, such as the Fen Orchid, which is found here and at only two other sites in Wales.

"Today, the 1,300-acre site is home to a Reserve Centre, Hyde Out Cafe and is a convenient hopping on point for the Bridgend Coast Path, part of the longer Wales Coast Path."

Portia went on to say: "On the edge of the reserve sits Glamorgan's largest natural lake, Kenfig Pool. Although some may be disappointed it's not open for wild swimming (boooo), the lake provides the perfect place for bird watchers with a series of bird hides around the lake. Just remember to bring your binoculars."

She explained how to get on the right route: "After grabbing coffee and cake from The Hyde Out Cafe, I followed the waymarked trail towards Sker Beach. Once you're on the right path-and don't worry, the cheerful yellow arrows will keep you on the right track you meander through a peaceful conservation area and along a sandy trail that eventually spills out onto the shore."

There was also plenty of nature to spot along the way: "Now, the sand paths that twist between the dunes? Absolute ankle workouts as you navigate the shifting sands. Still, it's all part of the charm. As I slowly trekked along the golden sands, I spotted plenty of pretty butterflies. I looked for resident gannets, skuas, storm petrels, and roseate terns."

As she reached the beach, Portia was pleasantly surprised: "Despite the sunshine, I was surprised to find the trail almost empty. Just a few friendly dog walkers, some runners, and some wetsuit-clad teens legging it to the sea. Honestly, I expected this absolute stunner of a South Wales spot to be heaving on a sunny Saturday morning, but nope, it felt like I had it almost to myself.

"Eventually, I could hear the sea as I plodded towards the unmistakable sound of the ocean. I walked up a small incline, and suddenly a huge beach was before me.

"Stepping down the pebble bank, I was soon on the firm sand that seemed to go on for miles. To my left was a headland with a solitary fisher casting a line; to my right, I could see the steelworks loom in the distance, giving Blade Runner vibes.

"As I traversed the shoreline, I spotted dog walkers in the distance and horse riders playing in the surf. It was remarkably quiet here, even on a gloriously sunny day.

"Perhaps because this isn't the most accessible beach in the Vale of Glamorgan, it deters families with young children looking for a beach day with plenty of amenities for the kids. Instead, this vast sandy stretch attracts dog walkers, horse riders and experienced surfers looking for a remote bay to ride the waves in peace."

However, those hoping to enjoy the water should heed Portia's warning: "If you're new to surfing, this might not be the best spot to give it a whirl. The waves can pack a punch here, and the rip currents can be downright feisty. There's also no lifeguard here, and the nearest loos and facilities are a good mile away at Kenfig. Instead, head to nearby Rest Bay, where you'll find a surf school and plenty of facilities, including an awesome beach view cafe."

There are then routes you can follow from Sker Beach, Portia suggested: "You can continue on the coast path from the beach, heading towards Rest Bay and Porthcawl town centre one way or towards Port Talbot and Aberavon Beach in the other direction.

"If you're doing a longer walk, have plenty of water and snacks and follow the Adventure Smart guidance, especially if you plan a sea swim."

Would Portia go back? "Definitely, just don't expect 99 Flakes, changing facilities and a cone of chips. This is south Wales at its wild, windswept best," she said.

"It's a beach for reflective walks, dipping your toes in cold waters and a moment of peace away from the crowds.

"Pack a flask, wear decent boots, and maybe bring a mate who won't moan about the lack of loos," she added.

Useful information

Start Point: The walk to Sker Beach begins at Kenfig National Nature Reserve, a 1,300-acre dune system near Porthcawl. Free parking, a visitor centre, loos, and The Hyde Out Café for a pre-walk caffeine fix or post-walk treat.

Location: Sker Beach is located on the Glamorgan coast, forming part of the wilder edge of Bridgend County. It's the westernmost beach in the Porthcawl area and lies just beyond Kenfig Burrows.

Getting There: Enter Kenfig National Nature Reserve into your satnav (postcode: CF33 4PT). It's signposted from the A48 and M4 (Junction 37). The nearest train station is Pyle, roughly 2.5 miles away, and there are local buses to Kenfig Village.

The Walk: The route to the beach is via waymarked trails through Kenfig's dunes. It's roughly a 40-minute walk (around 2.5 miles there and back), and the shifting sands make for a moderate leg workout.

The Wales Coast Path: This route forms part of the Wales Coast Path, a continuous 870-mile walking route around the Welsh coast. You can walk west towards Port Talbot and Aberavon Beach, or east to Rest Bay and Porthcawl. Just follow the waymarks or use the All Trails app.

What to Bring: There are no facilities at Sker Beach, no loos, lifeguards, or refreshments. Pack plenty of water, snacks, and anything else you might need. Decent walking boots or trainers are essential, even in summer. If you plan a sea swim, follow Adventure Smart advice and check local tide times.


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