
The City Older Than Time Itself
Varanasi, Kashi, or Banaras — known by many names, but felt the same by the soul. It is not merely a city on the banks of the Ganga, but a living paradox — where cremation is celebration, death is liberation, and time itself seems to stand still. Mark Twain once said, “Benaras is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together.” But even this poetic assertion falls short when you understand what Varanasi truly is — a divine mirage sustained by the breath of Mahadev himself.
According to Hindu scriptures, Kashi was not built — it was revealed. It is believed to be the only city created by Lord Shiva himself, held atop his trident when the world was flooded. Shiva did not just protect Kashi, he anchored it in eternity. While the rest of the cosmos was subject to the cycles of creation and destruction, Kashi was exempt, floating above the currents of time. That’s why Hindus believe that dying here is not an end — it is moksha. Not a punishment, but the final reward.
In a world of illusions and change, Varanasi remains the axis of permanence. Its temples are not simply buildings — they are coded blueprints of cosmic truths. Its ghats are not stone — they are metaphysical thresholds. One does not simply "visit" Banaras. Banaras visits you — when your soul is ready.
The Stillness at the Heart of the Storm
To understand Varanasi, one must begin with Shiva, the eternal outsider, the cosmic yogi, and the destroyer of illusions. Shiva is not simply worshipped in Banaras — he is Banaras.
In Shaiva tradition, Shiva is the Adi Yogi, the first and the last. He represents Tamas — the force of dissolution — yet he is also pure consciousness — untouched by it. He is both the fire of cremation and the silent witness watching it.
In Varanasi, Shiva is more than a deity. He is the air, the vibration, the sound of Damru that resonates beyond ears. Every burning pyre at Manikarnika Ghat is a testament to Shiva’s promise —
that the soul shall be freed. Legend has it that when someone dies in Kashi, Shiva himself whispers the Taraka Mantra into the soul’s ear, ensuring liberation from the cycle of rebirth. No other city in the world claims to have God personally conduct last rites.
Shiva’s omnipresence here makes everything sacred, even the ordinary. The ash on the body of the aghori, the skull bowl they carry, the silent meditations by the riverside — they all belong to a worldview where life and death are not opposite, but one movement.
Where else but in the city of Shiva could the destruction of the body be seen as the liberation of the spirit?
Where the Body Ends and the Soul Begins
There are over 80 ghats in Varanasi, but the most mysterious are Manikarnika Ghat and Dashashwamedh Ghat.
Manikarnika is not just a cremation ground. It is a door, a portal. It is believed that this is where Parvati dropped her earring (Manikarnika) while bathing, and Shiva dug the earth to retrieve it. This created a pit — now known as Manikarnika Kund — the energy vortex believed to be a powerful liberation point.
Cremation at Manikarnika is not mourned. There are no wails, no emotional collapses. Death is seen as a release. Families bring their loved ones from across the country just to burn them here, with a strange sense of divine privilege. The flames never stop. The fire of Manikarnika is said to have been lit by Shiva himself and has never extinguished — for thousands of years.
On the other hand, Dashashwamedh Ghat, where the famous Ganga Aarti is held every evening, is a place of divine theater. Fire, chants, conches, bells — all rise in synchronized cosmic worship. It is said that Brahma performed ten Ashwamedha Yagnas here to welcome Shiva. When you stand there, witnessing the offering of flame to the Ganga while the stars blink above, you realize you are watching the marriage of time and eternity.
Each ghat has its own energy. Some are for rituals, some for bathing, others for silent contemplation. Together, they are the spine of Varanasi, where the human and divine intermingle like the swirl of sandalwood and ash.
Mystical Geometry and the Hidden Mandalas of Kashi
Few know that Varanasi is not randomly built — it is structured like a cosmic mandala. The city's spiritual geography is designed to reflect the human body and the divine cosmos simultaneously.
The most important among these geometries is the Shiva Linga of Kashi Vishwanath, known as Avimukteshwar — the Lord who never abandons. It is believed to be the jyotirlinga of light, and the axis mundi of the city. Surrounding it are smaller shrines, each representing parts of the cosmic body.
This intricate layout is called Kashi Chakra — the spiritual equivalent of the Sri Chakra in Tantra. The city itself is laid out in such a way that pilgrimage circuits (parikramas) activate different chakras in the pilgrim’s own subtle body.
Temples like Annapurna Devi, Kal Bhairav, and Sankata Devi serve not just religious roles, but also esoteric energetic functions. Kal Bhairav, the fierce guardian, is not just the Kshetrapal (protector of the city), but the keeper of karmic accountability. Without his permission, even Yama cannot enter Kashi.
Thus, every step you take in Varanasi is a walk through your own soul. The city is not “somewhere else” — it is a mirror of what is already within you.
The Final Liberation Only Kashi Grants
Nowhere else in the world is death romanticized the way it is in Varanasi. But this is not morbid — it is mystical.
Why are people brought here to die? Why do the terminally ill take shelter in Moksha Bhawans — homes where they wait for death like a festival?
Because Kashi holds the promise of instant moksha — freedom from the cycle of birth and rebirth. When one dies in Kashi, it is believed that Maya (illusion) drops away, and Shiva himself grants the soul its original freedom.
Even modern science, when it studies the emotional detachment of those who live around cremation ghats, finds less fear and more acceptance of death. In Kashi, death is not an interruption. It is completion. It is a return. A remembering.
The Garuda Purana, Shiva Purana, and Skanda Purana extensively describe how dying in Kashi is unlike dying anywhere else. Because here, you don’t die — you dissolve. And in that dissolution, you finally know who you are — pure awareness.
That is the ultimate truth of Varanasi. It teaches you not how to live — but how to un-die.
The City That Lives in YouNo article, no book, no lecture can truly explain what Varanasi is. Because Varanasi is not to be understood — it is to be surrendered to.
You may walk into its chaos and come out silent. You may touch its waters and feel your ego vanish. You may sit by the ghat for ten minutes and forget your name — and for once, feel peace.
This city doesn't show you what God looks like. It shows you what it feels like to be nothing, and therefore everything.
So when you say:
"Tum ishq kaho, main Banaras samjhun..."
…you are saying something Shiva would smile at. Because Ishq, like Banaras, is not about possessing. It is about dissolving. Melting into something vaster. Larger. Unnamable.
Shiva is not just in Kashi.
Shiva is Kashi. And Kashi is You.
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